4. Cutting the Pattern pieces
Look at your template and instructions to determine how many pieces you need and plan your layout, keeping in mind the extra needed between pieces for seam allowance.
On most basic patterns you usually need to cut two of each pattern piece for each toy. As we advance to more sophisticated patterns you might need to cut only one as for a 'gusset' or 4 as for ears, legs and arms.
Fold your fabric so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing out ("wrong sides together"). Trace the pattern templates on the wrong side of the fabric. Use a few straight pins to keep the two layers of fabric aligned. Cut out at least 1/4 inch (or 3/4 of a cm) outside of the tracing line. See Diagram.
Tip: For baby toys especially, I often use scraps from old clothes or sheets etc. The material is lovely and soft from much washing and ironing and any sizing or starch is long gone.
5. Sewing
Unless specified otherwise, (very rare) you always sew on the wrong side with the right sides of the fabric facing each other.
Machine Sewing
If your machine allows it, set the needle to automatically stop in the 'down' position. You will need to lift the presser foot frequently to shift the material because of all the curves. You're going to want that needle holding your place on the stitching line.
Go slowly, it's still much faster than hand sewing.
Use your traced line to guide you. Stitch just to the inside of this line so that the line is part of the seam allowance. See Diagram.
Stitch all around leaving the opening for stuffing and turning. See Diagram. Start and end with an automatic tie off stitch or make a couple of stitches forward, reverse over those stitches, then move forward again to tie off. If you forget this step, you can pull up the thread on one side of the fabric so that it pulls up a loop of the bottom thread. Use a pin or needle to expand that loop then pull the bottom thread end through to the top. Tie the two pieces of thread together a couple of times to form a strong knot flush with the fabric. See Diagram.
Hand Sewing
Take a length of thread no more than 3 feet (90cm) Double your thread and tie a knot at the end. Read the instructions for machine sewing. Stitch the pieces together right sides facing, using a strong back stitch.
Clip the seam allowance on all inside curves (Indicated by V marks on the original HowToUniverse template). Clip as close to the stitch line as you can without cutting the seam line threads.
6. Turning and Stuffing
Use a stuffing stick to help turn the toy inside out. A stuffing stick can be any long narrow blunt ended item handy, such as the eraser end of a pencil. You can use the knobbed end of a knitting needle but avoid using the pointy end. (It's very easy to poke a hole in your fabric this way.) The best stuffing sticks I've used have been wooden ones made from doweling or a chopstick. Sand the ends so you have one end small but blunt for turning small areas like ears etc. and a larger blunt end for larger spaces.
7. Before stuffing.
On the right side mark the facial features and other embroidery marks using your template as a guide. The stitches (or fabric paint if you prefer) will cover these marks.
You will notice that the fabric will have a helpful tendency to fold under at the seam line opening. Press the seam allowance under along the seam line either with an iron or by creasing it between your fingernails. You will want a very definite crease line to guide you when you close that opening.
8. Stuffing
Pull off small pieces of stuffing and shove them into the opening using your chosen stuffing stick. Fill the furthest and smallest areas first, like feet, hands, ears. Continue stuffing until you have the softness and fullness you want. Close the opening with a blind stitch. Some call it a ladder stitch. See Diagram.
9. Embroidering Features
Use a Satin Stitch for solid areas such as eyes an noses and a Basic Back Stitch for curved lines like the mouth and eyebrows.
Any additional instructions will be included in the individual project or pattern instructions.
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